Source:
Russian coronation, 1896: the letters of Kate Koon (Bovey) from the last Russian coronation, pages 13 to 18, privately printed in Minneapolis, 1942
The letter excerpts:
Moscow, May 24, 1896
Dear Papa and Mama:
The morning of the day of the entry of the Czar into the city the sun shone bright and clear and we were up early, ready to start for the Hotel Dresden, where the Billhardts, Potter Palmers and we had a room with a couple of windows overlooking the street up which the procession was to pass and directly opposite the palace of the Grand Duke Serge, Governor of Moscow. Some of the streets were already closed when we reached them, and a ticket was demanded of us. We had none, but after a good deal of arguing we were allowed to pass. ...
The procession was not to enter the city until two o'clock...
It was near three o'clock when the cheering announced the approach of the procession. First came the Emperor's bodyguard, truly an imposing group of men with helmets and cuirasses shining like gold. Next came some Cossacks, and after them a really oriental spectacle as the representatives of the Asiatic peoples under Russian rule rode solemnly by on their horses. The nobles of Moscow who followed were also gorgeously attired. Next came the footmen of the court, the four court Arabs, the court musicians and the royal huntsmen. Next the Masters of Ceremonies appeared in eight handsome carriages each drawn by six horses. The Gentlemen of the Chamber and the Chamberlains followed upon beautiful steeds. Then came some of the grooms of the royal stables, followed by more fine equipages in which were some of the foreign diplomats, court officials and members of the Council of the Empire. As the guard of the Dowager Empress and some Russian Horse Guards passed us, we could hear furious cheering down the street. We leaned farther out of the windows, eager to catch our first glimpse of the Emperor.
Alone in his glory he came into sight. We knew him by his simple dress, his kind face quite pale with excitement, and by the fact that his hand was always raised up to his cap to salute his people who were wild with excitement and crying, "We would die for our Czar." Grouped around him were his ministers, generals, aides, etc., each in the most gorgeous uniforms and each exceedingly proud of his row of orders which reached from shoulder to shoulder. The grand dukes and the native and foreign princes who followed, represented many powerful countries, and were in themselves great men. Such a group of important personages would be hard to duplicate.
America alone was unrepresented in the body of foreigners which passed next. Why our military representatives did not appear, we do not know, but I am sure they would have looked as fine as any of the English, French, Germans, etc.
The Dowager Empress, Marie Feodorovna, mother of the Czar, who then appeared in a perfect wonder of a gold coach on the top of which was a crown, provoked more cheering from the people than did her son. The people have had thirteen years in which to know this woman, and they have learned to love her very much. We knew it must be the Dowager Empress by her sad face, for, poor woman, with one son at death's door, she had not much heart for the joys of the other. The bows with which she acknowledged the enthusiasm of the people were indeed far from being happy ones. The coach in which she rode was drawn by eight horses as white as the ostrich feathers that decorated their heads. The red Russian leather trappings were ornamented with quantities of gold buckles and monograms. Each horse was led by a page, while other pages surrounded the coach, and two gentlemen of the court took the place of lackeys.
Following closely came an even more gorgeous coach, drawn like the other by eight white horses. This coach had no crown on top, for the young Empress, although for two years the wife of the ruler of the Russians, had as yet, like her husband, no crown upon her royal brow.
I was so interested in the Czarina that I did not see the minute details of the coach and harness, on which jewels were used in a most reckless fashion. The Czarina looked beautiful in a white gown. Around her neck was a row of large diamonds which almost outshone her beaming face above. She kept bowing most graciously to the crowd, and it made me think she must be very amiable for she had already been bowing for a couple of miles and her neck must have ached sadly. She should follow the example of the little Queen of Holland whose seat is on a pivot so that she moves forward and back without any effort.
When the Czarina had passed, the interest of the crowd went with her, though in the coaches which followed were many royal women. As all the coaches were of gold and all were drawn by superb horses, we still had a great deal to see, though we could not distinguish the people inside, for the coaches were closed and it was not very easy to see in, though the sides, like those of the coaches of the Empresses, were of glass.
The vast pageant ended with the ladies of the court, followed by the Hussars and Lancers.
We could imagine the Emperor and Empress kneeling at the Iberian Chapel, which is built into one of the gateways near the Kremlin. There they crossed themselves and kissed the holy cross presented to them by one of the priests. After being sprinkled with holy water, they left the holy icon, which tradition makes very sacred because of the belief that blood issued from a scratch which an infidel made upon the cheek of the Virgin whose image is painted on wood.
The imperial party then went on to the Palace of the Kremlin where they are to stay during their sojourn in Moscow.
The only trouble I find with these great sights is that they are so soon over that I have only a confused idea of what I have seen. It would take a good while for me to grasp all the points of the splendid and unparalleled treat that we were given. I wonder if anywhere else in the world there could ever be a grander spectacle.
K. K.
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