Source:
Russian coronation, 1896: the letters of Kate Koon (Bovey) from the last Russian coronation, pages 19 to 25, privately printed in Minneapolis, 1942
The letter excerpts:
Moscow, Tuesday, May 26th, 1896
Dear Papa and Mama:
The grandest day of my life was also the most important day in the life of Nicholas II, the Czar of the Russians. According to the Julian calendar used in Russia this is May 14, for there is a difference of twelve days between it and the Gregorian calendar used in the United States. ...
At four o'clock I woke up to find the promise of a glorious, warm day, and I got up for good at five (not 4:30 for we begged off a half hour), had breakfast at six, ate as many boiled eggs as I possibly could, put on as many warm clothes as possible, saw that my blue satin train, with its bunches of pink poppies and its ruche of blue tulle was nicely hung over my left arm, and then tucked myself into the carriage with three other equally corpulent bundles of silk and satin, and away we went. Unfortunately we went to the wrong gate, and when finally we alighted from the carriage we had to sachet up and down rows of men, through masses of people and past tribunes or stands full of very plainly dressed women, until we could find some one who understood what particular place our tickets called for. We felt rather odd being so over dressed until finally some man, glittering with gold, escorted us to our seats and we found we had the best place in the entire Kremlin enclosure.
The tribune, in the second story of which we sat, faced the Kremlin square, which was surrounded by three churches, the famous Red Staircase leading to the palace and the stands which had been erected in all the possible spaces, completed the surroundings of the square. There was almost no one in the Diplomatic tribune when we arrived, although it was a little after seven. We got our seats in the second row, and when we had settled ourselves with our trains heaped in our laps, we began to take in the gorgeous sight spread out before us.
The brilliant crimson red carpet which covered the stairway to the palace also covered the steps and platforms which formed the entrance to the three churches, then ran across the square in two long pieces which divided the open space into four parts and made a regal path in all directions. The bright blue sky contrasted with the brilliant gold of the many domes which rose on all sides. In one direction we could catch sight of a bit of country, where the hazy green was a great change from the brightness of our immediate surroundings. Already the square was filling with people, and more kept coming in from all sides. The gorgeous red, white and gold uniforms of the guards, who lined the edges of the crimson carpet wherever it was laid were quite put to shame as the many representatives of the various oriental countries began to arrive, for when it comes to rich velvets, gold and silver cloths, the orientals certainly outshine every one else. If the ambassadors and the naval and military representatives (one from each country) were Christians, they and their wives were given tickets for the Cathedral of the Assumption, where the crowning of the Czar took place. Those who were not Christians were not allowed in the church but were, like ourselves, given tickets for the stand reserved for the rest of the diplomatic corps and for distinguished visitors on the official lists of the various ambassadors. It was in this way that we saw in the crowd near us some of the richly costumed men of the East. ... There were people from northern Russia who had on great heavy coats with huge fur collars. There were Persians, each wearing a black fez, Turks with their red ones, Bokharans with white or colored turbans and gowns of the richest stuffs, Koreans with the queerest black headdresses, Hussars with gold and fur trimmed coats hanging from their shoulders, and Caucasians in their long red coats. From the steppes of Siberia there were men whose hats were like sombreros. There were people from all the nations on the earth, forming the most interesting crowd imaginable.
The servants of the court were present in their red and gold suits, and a group of the maids, each looking like a bride in her white gown, stood on one of the distant platforms.
In the tribunes around the square were people in light dresses, and one uncovered tribune out in the sun was a bright picture, for all the women had light parasols and wore very light dresses. It was impossible to count the gentlemen of the court, all in solid masses of gold. They were the shining lights of the scene until the royal party appeared. Not only were the high men of the Russian court gorgeous, but every one in any way connected with the court was a brilliant sight that morning.
The seats in our tribune were soon filled, and the tout ensemble was most gorgeous. The women were brilliant in their court costumes, which we could study well as most of them gradually shed their wraps, for the day continued to grow very warm. Mrs. Roebling and Mrs. Palmer were bedecked with diamond tiaras, as were a group of English and French women behind us and many others around us. We didn't quite know why we had to dress in such an elaborate manner, but we soon found that we were to go to the palace for luncheon after the ceremony. ...
The priests and the metropolitans who are the next after the Czar in rank in the Greek church, robed in cloth of gold, and one wearing a gold and diamond mitre, passed into the Cathedral through a small side door. Soon the gentlemen of the imperial household filed into the church; then a large body of deputies from the different towns marched in. We wondered how the small church was going to hold all of them, together with the royal guests who had not yet gone in. The question was soon solved, for by watching another side door we could see the two processions file out. The diplomats and their wives began to descend the Red Staircase and were escorted by some of the high men of the court. A canopy of gold cloth with yellow, white and black ostrich feathers in great bunches on the top was carried to the foot of the stairway, and following a procession of brilliantly dressed men, the Dowager Empress appeared attired in a gown of embroidered white velvet, her long train carried aloft by a dozen men. Upon her dark hair rested her small crown, a semi-ball of diamonds, which showed to great advantage in the bright sunlight. As soon as she was under the canopy the procession started and moved slowly down the red carpet to the church where the priests were awaiting her. She bowed continually to the people, and when she got to the steps of the church she stepped from under the canopy, the priests came forward, and after she had been touched with holy water, she said some prayer before the icon which was held by one of the golden-gowned priests. She then clasped hands with the metropolitans, one at a time, and each bent down so close to her face it looked as though they kissed her cheek, but I think they only kissed her hand.
Then she passed into the church, followed by her group of women, all in the most gorgeous of gowns and richest of trains. There was quite a long wait, and then the imperial guests appeared, among them a queen, princes and crown princes and their wives, and dukes and grand dukes and their wives, etc., from the various parts of Europe. As our tribune was the nearest to the Cathedral we got a very good view of them.
The young Czar and his wife now appeared on the stairway. He was dressed in a blue uniform with a red ribbon across his breast. At his side was the beautiful Czarina in white wearing her red ribbon and around her neck were magnificent pearls. The people were wild with joy when the young couple came in sight. The Czar stepped first under a larger and more magnificent canopy than that under which his mother had moved. The Czarina walked behind him under the same canopy as they moved slowly to the door of the Cathedral, where they stopped for a long time for holy anointing and for prayers. The priests who had been around in the square throwing holy water upon the people were all in place now in the procession which moved to the door of the tiny Cathedral of the Assumption. We were told that for the next two hours the ceremony of the coronation would continue.
We tried to imagine the various religious parts of the ceremony, which we were told later were very tiresome for the people who had to stand for several hours in the church. We were glad we did not have to do that, but of course we should have been delighted to have seen the actual crowning. Since we could not, we tried to create a mental picture of the way the Czar's mantle was put about his shoulders and how he put his own crown on his head after receiving the benediction from the priests. When he had taken his sceptre and the globe into his hands, he seated himself for a moment upon his throne. The sceptre, crowns and globe we had seen carried on cushions into the church before the ceremony began. His next step was to take off his own crown and place it for a moment upon the Czarina's head, then replace it upon his own and take her small one and crown her. Her mantle was then put on, the bells and the cannon proclaimed to the people the coronation, and so loud was the noise I wonder you did not hear it. I suppose the telegraph announced the news to you across the seas. After more prayers, some singing and service and the congratulations of the family, it was after twelve and the canopies again were brought to the doors, and we knew we should not have to wait much longer.
There had been a good deal about us to interest us, and after a cup of tea we felt quite refreshed.
Now the larger canopy was taken to the side door, and we were quite exercised for a time wondering how we could see everything if they all came out different doors at the same time. We were greatly relieved when we saw the Dowager Empress come alone out of the front door and proceed to the foot of the Red Staircase which she ascended and disappeared, followed by the royal guests. The cheering began near the side door and heralded the coming of the newly crowned pair. Out they came, preceded as usual by the chamberlains and Masters of Ceremonies, etc. The Emperor's crown of diamonds flashed like a veritable sun, as he walked under his awning followed by the Empress. The procession passed from our sight for a few moments while the royal couple showed themselves to the people in the tribunes back of the square. We had not long to wait for they soon came back and went to the second cathedral, there to kiss the relics and "salute the tombs of their ancestors." Then they passed to the next church to do the same. At the entrance to each cathedral they were met by a group of priests who went in with them. When they had performed these duties their majesties left their canopy at the foot of the Red Staircase and ascended it amid the cheers of the people. At the top they turned for the people to catch the last glimpse of them, then they passed into the palace, and that part of the coronation festivities was at an end. ...
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Above: Nicholas and Alexandra with Marie Feodorovna at their coronation ceremony, painted by Lauritz Tuxen.
Above: Alexandra in her coronation dress, robes and crown, painted by Konstantin Makovsky.
